The Northern Jungles
In northern Esmeraldas, the roads fade to gravel and after that dust before finally petering out, their progress halted by a maze of greenery and water. Entry into this fabled wilderness requires a canoe and true grit– the kind displayed by the first non-indigenous inhabitants of the location, African servants who staged strong gets away through thick jungle from Colombian plantations, and later formed renegade militias to fight the Spanish. The descendants of those rebel servants, together with the Chachi Indians, stick tenaciously to the few human outposts in the area, their lives oriented to the flux of nature.
Due to its inaccessibility, the elaborate natural charm of the northern coastal jungle has avoided most visitors to Ecuador. Here the sturdy adventurer can delight in the peaceful pleasure of wandering through web like mangroves, in silence so complete you can practically hear the shrimp chattering under your canoe. Nature lovers will value the rich biodiversity of the region– including a number of endemic bird types– which can be checked out at the Cotocachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve and the Bilsa Biological Reserve, or through Savage Tours, a conservation-oriented travel bureau specializing in arranged explorations of Esmeraldas’ jungle “outback”.
Río Verde to San Lorenzo
As you follow the seaside roadway north from the city of Esmeraldas and cross the Esmeraldas river, cattle ranches and farmland are soon changed by thick forests and deserted shoreline. Small fishing towns dot the roadway, most with attractive beaches and few tourists. The two biggest towns are Rio Verde and Rocafuerte; the former has an excellent hotel.
At the roadway’s end, civilization stops and the Mataje-Cayapas Ecological Reserve begins. The reserve harbors 55,000 hectares of untouched mangrove forests, unoccupied beaches, and plentiful animals, and uses exceptional bird enjoying chances.
Mataje-Cayapas receives few tourists, but it does host a number of foreign assistance and investigation projects that generate scientists from all over the world. The Japanese technical mission for world mangrove reforestation has actually identified that the mangroves of the Majagual Forest, contained within the reserve, are the tallest on the planet (some over 64 meters). Neighboring Olmedo also boasts exceptional mangroves growing right on the beach, in addition to beautiful coconut forests.
The reserve stretches north to the Colombian border from the river towns of La Tola and Limones, both of which have fundamental low-cost lodgings. Limones includes the beach forests of Canchimalero and the Canal de Santa Rosa, which provide exceptional wildlife viewing opportunities, including huge bird nests and rare mammals such as the miniature tree sloth (Cyclopes didactylus).
San Lorenzo, the biggest town north of Esmeraldas, offers many excellent “mama and pop” restaurants and the location’s best hotels– but remember accommodations are still rather fundamental. For a truly tasty coastal meal, stop by Conchita’s and ask the duena to dish you up a plate of camarones (shrimp) or seco de pollo (stewed chicken) in her out-of-this-world sauce. The Ballena Azul, on the main roadway to the dock, includes the town’s finest breakfasts and fast and friendly service.
San Lorenzo’s Marimba celebration, held every May, draws countless visitors for 3 jubilant days of Marimba music and dancing. The August Fiestas of San Lorenzo, throughout which orchestras from Colombia play Salsa well into the next day, also bring scores of revelers into this typically sleepy backwater town.
Across the street from Conchita’s restaurant is the town’s barely-standing however well-used cultural center, where a youth ensemble places on nightly efficiencies of marimba music and dancing. These efficiencies are really practices for the larger occasions of Might and August, however the charming kids appreciate an audience (and a contribution) anytime. Be prepared to participate when a youngster takes your hand!
The jungle surrounding nearby towns such as Ricuarte and La Boca contains jade-hued, clear rivers beckoning you to take a dip. The forestry reserve of La Chiquita is also a must see for fans of tropical lowland forest. If the sexy beauty of these parts incites wanderlust, you can work with Manuel, a local boatman, to take you on an upriver expedition, or on an island-hopping experience through the area’s mangroves and estuaries. Born and raised in San Lorenzo, Manuel is kind, articulate, and an excellent source of local cultural, political, and ecological details. Contact him through the Ballena Azul dining establishment.
In the earlier days, many visitors would get to San Lorenzo by ways of the train that left from the Andean city of Ibarra. Throughout several years nevertheless, this methods of transportation gradually fell out of usage and eventually stopped working. Things have changed over the last few years though. The tracks have actually now been fixed up and the trains are once again running the circuit, making amazing journeys that link Ibarra in the sierra all the way to San Lorenzo on the Ecuadorian coast.
Daily buses with the Espejo and Valle de Chota lines leave San Lorenzo for Ibarra, Esmeraldas (only one bus each day leaving in the morning), and Borbon, crossing the Santiago river. Boats leave hourly to Limones (1 hour) and La Tola (2 1/2 hours) and everyday to Palma Real and Tumaco, across the border in Colombia. Inquire about departure times at the docks or in hotels.
The Cayapas River
Traveling up the Cayapas river resembles entering the fantastical world of a Gabriel Garcia Marquez novel. No place else in Ecuador does the real blend into the wonderful so effortlessly as it carries out in this separated location enveloped by tropical wilderness.
Initially inhabited just by the Chachi (Cayapas) Indians, the Cayapas river region is now a living tapestry of ancient native and ancestral Afro-Ecuadorian communities linked in a harmonious and vibrant manner. Both cultures keep alive an abundant heritage and folklore that is wonderfully revealed in Marimba music and dancing and arullo singing, styles originating in Africa.
Zapallo Grande is a crucial Chachi community where the visitor can take in impressive examples of native architecture and textiles. It has a comfy lodge run by the neighborhood.
San Miguel is the last town on the river with any accommodations aside from outdoor camping. It offers a well run neighborhood hotel, in addition to skilled regional guides who can take visitors farther upriver into the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve (request Jefferson or Alberto). The tropical forests of the Choco Bioregion within the reserve are a few of the most sensational and best protected in Ecuador, including magnificent waterfalls, towering trees, immense river gorges, and abundant plant and animal life.
The Santiago River
Even less traveled than the Cayapas is the Santiago river, home to centuries-old Afro-Ecuadorian neighborhoods such as Concepcion and Selva Alegre. Farthest upriver is the neighborhood of Playa del Oro, which has an enjoyable eco lodge and a neighborhood run ecotourism program that visits the Choco Bioregion. Bring a raincoat for the river travel, as there are lots of rapids and the going gets a bit damp.
All river travel up the Cayapas and Santiago rivers starts in the town of Borbon. At the docks canoes can be leased for an adventure or “flete”, and there is regular passenger service up both rivers daily. The green canoe to San Miguel leaves every day at 11:00 am and is motored by a local called Franco; simply look for his green canoe. You may want to purchase food in Borbon to prepare upriver, due to the fact that once you’ve left town costs are high and supplies limited.
Beaches
Beaches in Esmeraldas run the range from gloriously empty stretches that tickle your feet with unmarked sand to raucous strips carpeted with discos, beach ball nets, banana boats, and shining bodies.
While the mangrove-rimmed crescents of the northern jungle epitomize the previous classification, Atacames, Ecuador’s center of seaside event, tops the latter. Half an hour south of the city of Esmeraldas, plain Atacames is abuzz with all way of vibrant frolic year-round. Twenty-four hour thatched-roof bars right on the sand dish out sinful tropical fruit beverages to the pounding of reggae and salsa beats, which complete in energetic cacophony with those given off from the nearby discos. Ecuadorians and foreigners alike stroll along the jumbled oceanfront row of hotels and restaurants, having a look at the scene.
Everyone and everything in Atacames is permeated with a let-loose, summer season getaway air. Sadly, the prices are accordingly inflated, and even the most simple room will put you back a minimum of $10 USD (if that still seems like a steal you can indulge in among the location’s hot water and pool-equipped hotels). Likewise keep in mind that the lively atmosphere consists of a strata of shady characters who don’t mean you well (see traveler’s pointers for Esmeraldas).
Tucked away and hidden to the south of Atacames, some fourteen kilometers from the nearby town, lies ecolodge Playa Escondida A departure from the frequently wild celebration life of Atacames, this environmental reserve of 100 hectares that boasts a safe, personal, pristine beach offers a peaceful option for families and travelers.
If you prefer to see dawn after a good night’s sleep, head six kilometers south to Sua, a fishing town around the point from Atacames with a quiet, pretty beach and standard accommodations. Those with very first world needs and spending plans must keep going another six kilometers to same, the elite resort of Esmeraldas. Very same’s sparkling sands are bordered by swaying palms, Mediterranean style high-end condominiums (some available for weekly leasing), and trendy hotels. Warm water, swimming pools, and gourmet food are standard at Very same, as are Ecuadorians with Mercedes and Rolexes. For those with only a bus ticket and knapsack, there are a few USD 20 a night cabins squeezed in amongst the gold card-required facilities.
One hour south of Very same, the coastal road vanishes into water throughout from Muisne, a small island marking the border in between Esmeraldas and Manabi provinces. With its funky, lost paradise feel and long stretches of sunset-perfect beaches, Muisne fits its end-of-the-road place and makes a great location for those who wish to “avoid everything”. Barefooted residents pedal the couple of travelers across the island in rickety bicycle taxis, from the small town where the ferryboats dock to the little selection of oceanfront hotels using standard budget-level accommodations.
The majority of your time in Muisne will likely be invested relaxing in a seaside hammock while absorbing the island’s abundant and inexpensive cooking specialized, “encocados”: seafood dishes prepared in a yummy coconut sauce. In in between meals, motorboat expeditions can be made from Muisne to surrounding beaches. Mompiche has an especially attractive beach and brand-new environment-friendly, elegant cabins. Tongorachi is seldom checked out and preserves its intriguing regional character.
Travel even more south from Muisne into Manabi province needs an adventurous half day journey through boat and pickup (driving along the sand) to the town of Pedernales, where the seaside roadway and routine bus service begins again.
The City of Esmeraldas
The busy port city of Esmeraldas (pop. 300,000), capital of the province, forms an unique contrast to the laid back beach towns only minutes away. Dynamic commerce spills haphazardly through the dirty streets and the rather depressing concrete buildings. Most visitors decide to remain at close-by beach areas and enter the city as requirements determine. The very best nightclubs, bars and dining establishments remain in the Las Palmas neighborhood, in addition to the city’s choice– and costly– hotels.
By far the most interesting time to check out Esmeraldas is during the very first five days of August, when the city closes down its normal activities and changes into one giant celebration commemorating its self-reliance. Throughout the day parades of everything from cowboys to high school bands to military squadrons jazz up the streets before a crowd of onlookers, while during the night dozens of block parties erupt with frenetic celebration. Do not miss out on the marimba performance in the arena– a rare opportunity to see this spectacular music and dance kind restored by those whose ancestors brought it from Africa. You will likely be the only gringo in the area, and while seeing something couple of travelers (or Ecuadorians, for that matter) have seen before is rather an excitement, keep in mind that you will stand apart (see traveler’s pointers for Esmeraldas).
Travel Tips
Keep in mind that Esmeraldas is usually safe for travelers; a lot of local individuals have come to depend upon tourist for their incomes that there is growing community issue for visitors’ welfare. If you ask questions, many people will provide you remedy info and encourage you on how to reach your location. If you are concerned about buses and taxis, many hotels in Esmeraldas have syndicates that can schedule reputable, affordable transport. Likewise, most rural neighborhoods have reliable regional guides that can be hired for trips.
That said, any place you enter this world, there are people who do not imply you well, and regularly in areas with high levels of poverty this circumstance gets worse. Staying safe means understanding and warns and observing standard practices such as not being on the streets or beaches alone during the night and keeping an eye on your belongings at all times.
Transport
Transportes Esmeraldas and Transportes Occidentales deal routine bus service in between Quito (Terminal Terrestre bus station) and Esmeraldas (main plaza downtown) for about USD 5. PanAmericana does the very same 5 hour trip in luxury buses for a few dollars more (leaves Quito from station at Reina Victoria y Coln). Esmeraldas and Occidentales likewise leave Esmeraldas regularly for Guayaquil (8 hours, USD 7).
A Taxi from the bus stations in downtown Esmeraldas to Atacames takes a half hour and costs about USD 7 (the reverse route expenses significantly less). Taxis at night are not recommended, as there have actually been hold-ups. During times of high demand there are typically direct buses to Quito from Atacames, however buy your ticket well in advance (bus business offices are four blocks back from the beach across the footbridge over the river).
The Costenita and Del Pacífico local bus lines take a trip from the marketplace below the primary square in Esmeraldas to towns along the seaside roadway– Borbon, Atacames, Sua, Same, Muisne. These buses and rancheras are inexpensive, congested, uneasy, and slow. If you’re taking a trip along the primary seaside roadway, simply flag one down– they pass a minimum of every half hour till 10pm. Constantly enjoy your bags, and don’t take night buses into backwoods.
Rancheras are funky open-sided buses that bump and grind their way along shabby rural roads. Roofing system riding is an enjoyable way to transfer yourself from one regional to the next, but be careful with the unforgiving equatorial sun and view your bags.
All boat travel from San Lorenzo should be done by the normal hourly service from the main docks. Boat employing need to be done through Cidesa in Limones or with Manuel in San Lorenzo. Travelers trying to employ boats outside regular treatments risk of being established and robbed by pirates.
The San Lorenzo-Ibarra Train
In the earlier days, numerous visitors would get to San Lorenzo by ways of the train that departed from the Andean city of Ibarra. Throughout numerous years however, this ways of transportation gradually fell out of use and ultimately quit working. Things have actually altered over the last few years though. The tracks have actually now been restored and the trains are as soon as again running the circuit, making spectacular journeys that link Ibarra in the sierra all the way to San Lorenzo on the Ecuadorian coast.
Accommodations
With the exception of Exact same, Atacames, and the city of Esmeraldas, a lot of accommodations in Esmeraldas province are at the spending plan level. Your common no-frills however clean hostal will cost you about (USD 5-8) a night for a private space with shared bath. Even mid-range hotels rarely have hot water showers, which isn’t as bad as it sounds offered the region’s year-round humidity. Most hotels do supply mosquito net or fans, necessary preventative measures due to the existence of malaria in the area. There are several luxury comfy hotels and resorts in the area from south of the City of Esmeraldas down to Muisne. See the Costal hotels section for more details.
In small and remote towns, such as those positioned in the upper reaches of the Cayapas and Santiago rivers, routine hotels might be non-existent. Family stays and outdoor camping are frequently possible, however. Outdoor camping is permitted and relatively safe at the following locations: the towns of Zapallo Grande and San Miguel and the town of Playa de Oro (all within or simply outside the Cotocachi-Cayapas Reserve), Bilsa Reserve, and the Permaculture Station in San Lorenzo (inquire at the Hotel Continental with Mauro Caicedo). Do not camp at Atacames or Muisne due to safety concerns. Sticking with a regional family is an inexpensive choice in practically all villages and is an excellent “in” to local culture; just ask around at dining establishments and shops.
Health
Malaria is generally present in the Esmeraldas region, so travelers ought to avoid potential exposure from about 5-7 pm, the approximate hours that Malaria bring Anopheles mosquitos exist. One need to think about following an anti-malarial drug regimen (doxycycline or mefloquine, see “Health” area for information), specifically if staying for an extended period or checking out Muisne, San Lorenzo, or the Cayapas and Santiago river locations. (If you prepare to be in these areas for just a couple of days, it’s arguable whether you must risk the potential side-effects of anti-malaria prophylaxis in exchange for increased defense. Lots of immigrants residing in Ecuador opt to pass up medication.) Insect repellent with high levels of DEET must be applied consistently, and legs must be kept covered whenever possible. Insect repellent also assists prevent the mosquito-carried leishmaniasis skin infection, along with keeping away other nasty animals, such as chiggers and ticks.
The succulent seafood of Esmeraldas is well-deserving of awards, but make certain it’s well-cooked before you eat it if you don’t wish to lose your tan to a few days locked in the bathroom. All ceviches (a classic Ecuadorian meal made of seafood cooked in lemon juice) ought to be consumed in respectable, clean restaurants that tailor to travelers. Also exercise care with jugos naturales (fruit juices) and batidos (fruit juice with milk): alcoholic or otherwise, they might include unboiled water which might trigger stomach problems and sickness. Demand that all water and milk be boiled before used to make your beverage, or– for total assurance and gut– supply a bottle of cleansed water for the facility to use.
The equatorial sun is strong. Keep applying that sunscreen, specifically while riding roof top on a bus, sliding along in a canoe, or sleeping away last night’s salsa dancing on the beach.
Health care facilities in Esmeraldas: health centers in Esmeraldas (2) and San Lorenzo; private physicians in Esmeraldas, San Lorenzo, and Limones; centers in Atacames, Borbon, and Limones; dispensaries in all of the above along with Muisne and La Tola. Attention for any severe medical emergency situation should be looked for at the personal healthcare facility in the city of Esmeraldas, located at Bolivar and Canizares. For further health care info, please visit our health area.
Security
Avoid the park and downtown district in the city of Esmeraldas after dark and early in the morning. However, if you do wind up in Esmeraldas at night, the very best location to hang out and wait on the next bus is the street opposite the Trans Esmeraldas bus station, where there are 24 hr shops and food kiosks, as well as the fire department and the police station.
The beaches at Atacmas and Muisne can be dangerous after dark. One should be cautious with overly-friendly people, rip-offs of various types prevail consisting of drug and prostitution rip-offs. Tourists must resist the temptation of low-cost drugs in any case, considering that a lengthy prison term without trial awaits you if caught.
Like any traveler in an unfamiliar place, you can greatly decrease your vulnerability to undesirable circumstances simply by using your sound judgment: Do not trust extremely friendly or “handy” individuals, especially teens. Do not take a trip alone in rural areas or at night. Do not get associated with “risky” scenarios. Watch your things, lock your hotel room at all times, and keep the key with you instead of leaving it with the front desk. Females tourists ought to constantly look out and mindful, and ought to travel with reliable male business whenever possible. If you do discover yourself a victim of a mugging or a possibly violent scenario, you should constantly cooperate.
Environment and When to Go
Esmeraldas is the wettest seaside province, and “summer” is just less rainy than the rest of the year. A lot of days in Esmeraldas dawn to brilliant sun, with tropical showers in the afternoon and during the night.
January and February are thought about by many the very best months to visit Esmeraldas, as they get the most sun. They are also the hottest (once again, a relative term) months, nevertheless.
The northern coast and tropical forests of Esmeraldas get more rain than the southern beaches and savannah.
What to Bring
Insect repellent (with DEET), high-factor water resistant sunscreen, sun hat, anti-malarial pills, rubber boots (can be purchased in a lot of towns), swimsuit, beach towel, video camera, movie of differing speeds, rain poncho.